tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20726189418358478452024-03-06T03:10:29.370+01:00The Miles Files and Leo LogChronicling the Adventures of Miles and Leo FalvyUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger428125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-44589641494847026082013-08-19T05:00:00.004+02:002013-08-19T09:14:27.898+02:00Falvy's Index<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Our Trip, by the Numbers: </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Days
abroad:</b> 52<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Days
within 1 km of the Adriatic Sea:</b> 27<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Days
featuring swimming: </b>25<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Countries
visited:</b> 9 (Iceland, Germany, Austria, Italy, Croatia, Montenegro, Bosnia,
Slovenia, Hungary)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Land borders
crossed:</b><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>12<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Land
borders with passport check:</b> 7<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Longest
visit to a country:</b> Croatia (28 days)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Shortest
visit:</b> Montenegro (6 hours)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Different
overnight accommodations: </b>19<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Longest
stay, 1 accommodation: </b>7 nights (Lake Balaton, Hungary)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Shortest
stay: </b>1 night (Ingolstadt, Germany; Hall-in-Tyrol, Austria; Mostar, Bosnia; Ljubljana,
Slovenia)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Plane
flights:</b> 4<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Ferries:
</b>8<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Kilometers
driven:</b> 4604 (not including Iceland)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Longest
drive, 1 day:</b> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>683 km (Lake Balaton to
Munich)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Longest
period without driving:</b> 4 days (Venice, of course)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Auto
accidents: </b>0<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Scratches
on car: </b>1 (rear bumper, attributed to anonymous driver in Dubrovnik parking
lot)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Most
expensive parking:</b><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><b> </b> </span>€ 25/day (Dubrovnik)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Totally
unjustified parking tickets:</b> 1 (that would be you again, Dubrovnik)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Predicted
Audi count:</b><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><b> </b> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>715 (Xannie)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 3;"> </span>1008 (Dean)<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 3;"> </span>1009 (Miles)<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 3;"> </span>1109 (Lisa)<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 3;"> </span>“Nothing”
(Leo)<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Actual
number of Audis counted en route:</b> 1416 (Congratulations, Mommy!)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Fighting,
number of times kids ejected from car for:</b> 1<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Nannies:
</b>1 (13 nights, Venice through Split)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Babysitters:</b>
1 (2 nights, Dubrovnik)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Doctor
visits: </b>1<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Hospitalizations:</b>
0<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Pizzas,
approximate number eaten by kids:</b> 35<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Gelatos,
approximate number eaten by kids: </b>90</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><b>Days until next summer:</b> 305</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-87901864055814356002013-08-05T10:25:00.000+02:002013-08-19T04:06:30.619+02:00Bayern Munchin'<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Munich, the final stop on our trip, was a homecoming of sorts. We lived there for 4 months in 2007 when Miles was a one-year-old.<br />
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So we took the opportunity to visit some old haunts.<br />
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The Deutsches Museum -- one of the great scientific and technical museums of the world -- captivated us back in our Munich days. </div>
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It also provided the finish line for Miles and Leo's European archeological/spy mission.<br />
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A succession of clues, beginning in Venice, led us to the elaborate mining exhibit beneath the Deutsches Museum.<br />
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The boys were up to the task and snared a bag of loot (redeemable at a local toy store) to conclude the adventure.<br />
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Munich was also an excellent spot to conclude our adventures as well. Almost every street in the center of the city was associated with some memory from our stay five and a half years ago. <br />
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It was <em>viel spass</em> to make some new memories with the kids there as well.<br />
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When it was finally time to pack up one more time and say <em>auf Wiedersehen</em> to Munich, it was hard to believe that our amazing trip was over as well.<br />
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We took Fritz out for one last sprint down the Autobahn. Although we looked forward to being reunited with our trusty Audi in a couple of months, we knew that driving on our speed-limited American highways would never be the same for him. It was like taking an animal from the wild and shipping it off to a zoo.<br />
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Before boarding our plane, we took Fritz to the drop off point and turned him over to Audi's (hopefully) capable and trustworthy agents.<br />
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Not before carefully checking the trunk, however.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-73467106477422454412013-08-03T08:54:00.000+02:002013-08-15T20:46:53.287+02:00Breakfast at Tihany's<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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An excursion across Lake Balaton to the scenic town of Tihany put the whole family into motion.</div>
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We gazed at the tombs of Hungarian kings...<br />
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... took in the fine baroque church...<br />
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... checked out the latest in roof-thatching technology...<br />
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...and viewed, not for the last time, the historical borders of Hungary (drawn in sharp contrast to the present ones). <br />
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Whether it was fueled by Hungarian irredentism, or American imperialism, no one knows -- but a full-scale squirt-gun war broke out back at the compound.<br />
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Peace was restored with difficulty.<br />
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When the dust settled, something was missing.<br />
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The Aquapark in Balatonfüred got rave reviews from young and less young alike. <br />
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Then, it was was finally time to say <span class="st">"viszontlátásra" to our Hungarian family and our unforgettable Balaton hideaway. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqDSOk8YvxDysUObHa0wCsIOnPbok7HCyZEz-6XkLrOImxz_C7wJsGZI1CIitbYdPFYdYyNoZqujaZmfdX_4uTfQavenbhmJAvCgKy_yzOmRXs-ZV2QRNqWb9THfNR5uugAEUVphDM9i8/s1600/DSC_0513.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqDSOk8YvxDysUObHa0wCsIOnPbok7HCyZEz-6XkLrOImxz_C7wJsGZI1CIitbYdPFYdYyNoZqujaZmfdX_4uTfQavenbhmJAvCgKy_yzOmRXs-ZV2QRNqWb9THfNR5uugAEUVphDM9i8/s640/DSC_0513.JPG" width="640" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-519h336MgDM/UgDQm-MCx5I/AAAAAAABB3E/kWQ55lDZ_Xs/s1600/DSC_0198.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-85967880090472567032013-07-28T18:28:00.000+02:002013-08-10T01:35:40.095+02:00Pass the Balaton<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlQCX9IrpFp6u6nresYCj5AFpSazq9ZDFe4Mz0yX5bQyE7r1vu5H69ld05DGnrW5ercvtZzMBfwSW65NDoRgEAX3-8qgCLgjx_2ggCm71bMv_vIsdkNkpFEsaN0ss5HXCSfraj0f2kwAU/s1600/Balaton.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlQCX9IrpFp6u6nresYCj5AFpSazq9ZDFe4Mz0yX5bQyE7r1vu5H69ld05DGnrW5ercvtZzMBfwSW65NDoRgEAX3-8qgCLgjx_2ggCm71bMv_vIsdkNkpFEsaN0ss5HXCSfraj0f2kwAU/s640/Balaton.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The penultimate destination on our journey would be our
longest single stop: <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>a week on the
shores of Hungary’s Lake Balaton.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The initial impetus for our entire trip was to
introduce Miles and Leo to their Hungarian cousins, six of whom were under the
age of 7.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Miles had actually met two
of them on his last trip to Hungary, for the Christmas holiday in 2007, shortly
after observing his first birthday in Germany.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Most of our Hungarian relatives live in the capital, Budapest--a
lovely city but typically quite hot in August.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Lacking a seacoast of its own (having lost its slice of the Croatian Riviera
to Yugoslavia after defeat in WWI), Hungary particularly treasures its
77km-long Balaton.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Much of the country
decamps to its shores in the heat of summer.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We decided to emulate them, inviting the entire clan to join
us for a week in a rental house on the south side of the lake.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJNEu6DsbkDb7vuLU_Tmz34mZQO07F0kHPgXgEss1ZEeHWp42NPkJM_bD0qPwv-WWRhdjaGj-uaxi74TZUnYqrgsOfY9WrZ1snJcLmuG9MwtrPJFPY0ob6X87rEMCixsjPkOjx-ElY2sE/s1600/DSC_0505.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJNEu6DsbkDb7vuLU_Tmz34mZQO07F0kHPgXgEss1ZEeHWp42NPkJM_bD0qPwv-WWRhdjaGj-uaxi74TZUnYqrgsOfY9WrZ1snJcLmuG9MwtrPJFPY0ob6X87rEMCixsjPkOjx-ElY2sE/s640/DSC_0505.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Balaton is a huge lake, but notably shallow. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is especially true on the south shore,
where one can wade for half a kilometer before needing to even think about
swimming.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This made it an ideal spot to
train would-be swimmers, including Miles, whose progress in swimming this
summer was exceeded only by his own estimation of his abilities.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></div>
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An armada of floatation devices also helped keep everyone afloat.</div>
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Smaller bodies of water were also available to the smaller bodies among us.<br />
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Miles tested his newfound enthusiasm for chess against some Hungarian masters, like his cousin Edina.<br />
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Motorcraft are strictly limited on the lake, making it ideal for exploration by shallow-draft sailing vessels.<br />
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For the most part, we had sunny weather and calm waters. But Balaton is big enough to generate its own weather. When the wind kicks up (often at the end of the day), it can be a sight to behold.<br />
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A system of warning lights starts flashing with increasing insistence, urging mariners to find a safe port to ride out the storm, while those on shore are urged to secure anything that could fly away (which turns out to be most things).<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-16796758913901369992013-07-27T00:13:00.000+02:002013-08-05T21:33:28.820+02:00Don't... Stop.. Thinkin' about Ljubljana<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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As difficult as it may be to pronounce, we had to add Ljubljana to our list of reasons to visit Slovenia.<br />
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If every little country in Europe had a capital this fun, we'd have to make more little countries.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-23062501397661169862013-07-25T22:59:00.000+02:002013-08-05T00:17:55.033+02:00Sling Bled<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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If you've seen one picture of Slovenia, it's probably of Lake Bled, a photogenic little corner of the Julian Alps.<br />
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It was a fine setting for some alpine sliding.<br />
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The ride will long be remembered in Falvy lore.<br />
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The former dictator of the former Yugoslavia, Tito, liked the looks of Lake Bled enough to appropriate a nice villa for himself on its shores.<br />
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Guests were treated to a nice portrait of the man himself...<br />
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... not to mention a massive Socialist Realist mural of his exploits.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LerhiDjcbpg/UflPczcn7AI/AAAAAAAA-10/YXhBte5Tqhk/s1600/DSC_0134.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LerhiDjcbpg/UflPczcn7AI/AAAAAAAA-10/YXhBte5Tqhk/s640/DSC_0134.JPG" /></a><br />
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It may have been a coincidence, but quite a few of the local men of a certain age bore more than a passing resemblance to the former President-For-Life.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-12697472205441221142013-07-25T15:08:00.000+02:002013-07-31T21:24:38.096+02:00The Thirteenth Battle of the Isonzo<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The western edge of Slovenia is marked by the Soca River, which today carries legions of kayakers and rafters from the Julian Alps to the Adriatic Sea.<br>
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A hundred years ago, however, the course of the Soca (better known as the Isonzo, from the Italian) defined one of the fiercest battle fronts of WWI. All along the river and its surrounding mountains, Italian troops struggled to make headway against Austria-Hungary and its German allies from 1915-18.<br>
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Today the area houses an excellent museum in Kobarid (known, more infamously as Caporetto, again in Italian), which labors to show the grim nature of the conflict with little heroic fanfare.<br>
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The battles on the Isonzo managed to combine all of the horror and futility of trench warfare on the Western Front with the travails of mountain warfare: frostbite, avalanches, and grueling topography. <br>
The Sisyphean nature of the Italian advance can be measured by the names of the battles. The fact that an "Eleventh Battle of the Isonzo" was necessary does not speak well to the results of the first ten.<br>
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When the Twelfth Battle arrived in 1917, it was the Austro-Hungarians and the Germans who took the offensive, and this time they managed a decisive result, one of few in the entire war. The Italian front collapsed leaving hundreds of thousands of casualties and prisoners behind. The Austrians reached the Piave River near Venice, hundreds of kilometers to the west.<br>
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The victory at Caporetto was illusory, though -- a year later it would be the turn of the Austrian Army to fold due to lack of supplies and internal disintegration, and the Italians would recapture the region at the end of the war. <br>
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But the Falvy Family had a special interest in seeing Caporetto. The boys' great-grandfather, Dezső Győrgyfalvy (Sr., not to be confused with his son, Dean's father) fought for the Austro-Hungarian Army in the Twelfth Battle at the age of 20. Dezső was shot in the lung and left on the battlefield for dead; only when a comrade went searching for his body later was he found to be still alive. The medics believed he had no chance of survival and refused to evacuate him, so his comrade had to carry him to safety on his back. According to family lore, Dezső's father, who had already lost two other sons in the war, traveled to the front to nurse him through his recovery. Though he lost the use of one lung, Dezső did survive the war (and the next one) and lived to the age of 68, the last 10 of which he spent in exile in the United States.<br>
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Miles was fascinated by this story, but also found it hard to grasp the idea that if Dezső had not managed to survive the war, Miles himself would not exist (at least not in any recognizable form). Truth be told, his dad finds the difficult to grasp as well!<br>
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It was a memorable visit to a beautiful but haunting place. <br>
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As we moved up the road to Bovec and the Alps, it was good to see the river put to use in more peaceful pursuits, as Italians, Slovenians, Germans, Hungarians and Austrians seem to enjoy a bit of good whitewater.<br>
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There was one final reminder of WWI in store for us -- an incredible road carved into the mountainside of the Julian Alps by Russian prisoners of war to supply the Austrian side of the Isonzo front. We scaled its 50 switchbacks wondering at madness fighting a war amid such scenery. <br>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-63752132763638461422013-07-23T08:25:00.000+02:002013-07-28T08:34:23.357+02:00Life in the Slovene Lane<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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From Croatia we looped back north to Slovenia, the last of the former Yugoslav republics on our itinerary. It's a compact country of only 2 million people, most of whom appear to be deeply into hiking, skiing, kayaking, and anything else that will allow them to put a roof rack on top of their cars. In short, it was a place where a Seattleite could feel at home.</div>
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Of course, we don't exactly have this kind of thing back at home.<br />
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The vast caves at Postojna were unlike any we'd ever seen.<br />
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The underground train ride was a hoot.</div>
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For Lisa, a visit to the original Lippizaner horse farm at Lipica, near the Italian border, was a must.<br />
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They weren't exactly Lippizaners, but the boys enjoyed their obligatory pony ride.<br />
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Our rural inn provided all the recreational amenities a couple of kids could need.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-79017825280500551162013-07-21T21:06:00.003+02:002013-07-25T23:39:27.080+02:00Land O' Lakes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Blogging this trip has been a bit of a challenge, with far more photos and experiences to share than time in the day or bandwidth at night would permit. So we've been running 4-5 days behind in telling the tale. But now the gap has widened to 9 days, and all of our varied travels in Dubrovnik, Montenegro and Bosnia remain unblogged. Don't worry -- we'll get back to them.<br />
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But today's trip to Plitvice Lakes National Park (back in Croatia) deserves to be blogged in real time. This place is simply one of the natural wonders of the world, if it is indeed actually on this planet. <br />
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Rather than trying to explain the chemo-geology underlying this vast terrain of cascading streams and lakes, we'll let the pictures do the talking -- with the caveat that the pictures don't do it justice.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-55920551370525939212013-07-20T14:29:00.000+02:002013-07-27T02:52:07.777+02:00Mostar's Ghosts<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Mostar is best known for its high-arched bridge over the Neretva River, built by Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent in the 16th century, destroyed by Croat forces in the 1993 war, and rebuilt with international aid in 2004.<br />
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Mostar has a beautiful setting, and must have been a lovely city before the war. The few blocks of restored buildings in the Old Town, including the impressively rebuilt bridge, suggest that it may one day be again. <br />
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Of course, the most striking change for the visitor from the Adriatic coast was the sudden appearance of minarets, mosques, Arabic (purely decorative, as the Bosniacs speak Serbo-Croatian and write it with the Latin alphabet), and the occasional headscarf.<br />
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Bosnian food wasn't radically different from the Croatian fare we'd become accustomed to, but there was a welcome dash of Turkish flavors added to the mix.<br />
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The eastern half of the city is solidly Bosniak (i.e., Muslim) while the west bank (with the exception of the Old Town is predominantly Croat (i.e., Catholic). There used to be a sizable Serb population, too, but they were driven out by (or fled, depending on who you listen to) the Bosniak-Croat alliance that favored Bosnia's independence from Yugoslavia. Of course, the Bosniaks and Croats felt that the Serbs were trying to drive <em>them</em> out. So far, are you with me?<br />
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According to the script that was <a href="http://falvy.blogspot.com/2013/07/defenders-of-dubrovnik.html">written in Dubrovnik</a>, the Bosniaks and Croats were supposed to be the good guys, and the Serbs the aggressors, so what happened next was hard to process. The Croats decided that they wanted to secede from Bosnia and set up their own little statelet (based in Mostar) for eventual incorporation into a Greater Croatia. This required driving their Bosniak allies out of their homes in Mostar, which they proceeded to try to do.<br />
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But why blow up that lovely bridge? Admittedly, it had some token military significance, as the Bosniaks were using it to carry essential supplies by foot to their surviving enclave on the west bank of the Neretva. Or maybe the Croats didn't care about a landmark that attested to the longevity of the Muslim presence in Mostar. In any event, it wasn't a stray shot -- it took a sustained battering to take the bridge down.<br />
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Still, the bridge has been rebuilt precisely to the original Ottoman specs and looks marvelous. The rest of the city shows its scars more readily.<br />
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Entire blocks of buildings remain in ruins, and it was more notable when a structure showed no evidence of bullet holes than when it did.<br />
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Other than the dramatic destruction of the Old Bridge, the fighting in Mostar was overshadowed by events in Sarajevo and elsewhere that better fit the established narrative. Before this trip, we had little idea how long and brutal the siege had been or the extent of the lingering damage.<br />
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In this context, perhaps it was not surprising to find some nostalgia for the Tito Era, when the dictator kept a tight grip on ethnic divisions in Yugoslavia.<br />
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Still, as sad as Mostar's recent history may be, it was a comfortable place to visit, with no sense of menace or danger to the traveler.<br />
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One hopes that someday the same can be said for the local inhabitants.<br />
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The following day, we would return to mountainous inland Croatia, passing through beautiful countryside that also showed signs of war -- ruined buildings and churches alongside prosperous farms and new construction. This was the Krajina, a region of Croatia with a large Serb population that tried to secede from Croatia's secession in the '90s. Depending, again, on your point of view, the Serbs either kicked off the Yugoslav civil war by doing this, or were just exercising the same right of self-determination that the Croats were asserting. But it is clear that the Serb population was driven out by a Croatian counter-offensive in 1995, and it is their homes and churches, presumably, that remain in ashes while the Croats rebuild around and over them. A number of the Croat generals who led this operation are on trial for war crimes; you can see posters and bumper stickers calling them heroes throughout the country, but especially in this region. Much depends on it being so.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-75269679661263091382013-07-20T01:35:00.000+02:002013-07-27T01:42:32.750+02:00Banana Republika Srpska<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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After 28 days on the Adriatic, we climbed the mountain south of Dubrovnik and turned inland, beginning a new phase in our journey.<br />
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We didn't set out to do a tour of major battle zones of the Yugoslav civil war -- it just sort of happened. But when we added Mostar and Bosnia to the itinerary, we knew we were visiting a place that had seen heavy fighting and a country with a lot of unhealed wounds.<br />
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Our first indication that we were entering a different world did not take long. We decided to take an indirect -- but purportedly more scenic -- route from Dubrovnik to Mostar. This also had the advantage of reducing three border crossings to one (since, for reasons too obscure even for this blog to explore, the main road passes through Croatia, Bosnia, Croatia, and Bosnia again). This matters, because former Yugoslav borders are not the trivial sign-and-maybe-a-wave crossings now common in the rest of Europe. No, you get both an exit and an entry control every time, with careful scrutiny of passports and all our German-language car documents that we can't understand. So the back road it was.<br />
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The back road would take us through the Republika Srpska, which is at least one vowel short of being an actual country, although in many ways it behaves like a very depressing one. You may recall from your '90s newspaper reading, or TV watching, or whatever you did before the iPad, that when Bosnia-i-Herzegovina (or BiH, as the car license plates would have it) seceded from the Yugoslav federation, the Serbs in Bosnia wanted nothing to do with the new state. They decided to secede themselves, declaring their own Republika Srpska in much of the territory of BiH. Aided by their compatriots in Serbia and Montenegro, the only remaining fragments of Yugoslavia, the Bosnian Serbs proceeded to ethnically cleanse their Bosniak (Muslim) and Croat (Catholic) neighbors, . <br />
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The international community had no idea what to do about the war in Bosnia, but just about everyone agreed that partitioning the place on ethnic lines would only encourage more war and ethnic cleansing there and everywhere else around the globe. So Republika Srpska was never well received. Yet when the war was finally settled by U.S. mediation in 1995, the compromise that did it left BiH divided into numerous cantons (a term wishfully adopted from placid Switzerland), which were in turn attached to one of two sub-national entities: a Bosniak-Croat "Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina" and the-much maligned Republika Srpska. Neither is allowed to call itself a nation state, or to maintain internal borders or checkpoints, but otherwise all of the administrative apparatus of the country (such as it is) seems to be in the hands of one side or the other.<br />
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Which brings us to the border of Republika Srpska. Thinking (as always) of our devoted readers,we thought that entering the territory of BiH merited a photo of the sign marking the border, as well as of the much larger sign announcing the quasi-sovereignty of Republika Srpska.<br />
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Bad idea. RS border guards immediately swarmed our car, shabbily dressed, but with faces as stern as if it were 1962 at Checkpoint Charlie. "You may not take photograph! You must pay penalty!" a skinny young guard shouted at me through the driver's side window, while an older, plumper one stomped around with our passports.<br />
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Later, with some time to reflect on the incident, it was clear how ludicrous the idea was that you couldn't take a photo of an international border. One could have pulled out a cell phone and started talking about speed-dialing the late Richard Holbrooke. One might have gotten cheeky about whether Republika Srpska was a real country and if so At the time, however, the threat of serious delay and harassment could not be dismissed. Lisa offered to delete the offending photo from her iPhone, and the older guard on the passenger side became sufficiently interested in watching the process that he undercut his younger colleague's continued demands for monetary penalties on the driver's side. Ultimately, we were allowed to drive on, and were spared the indignity of having to fund further extortion.<br />
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Later, we read that the RS's police are notorious for demanding bribes from tourists on the slightest pretext. (Note to self: next time, try reading the guidebook <em>before</em> you enter the country.) In any event, it was another example of the Republika Srpska's genius for winning friends and influencing people.<br />
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The countryside we explored for the next few hours, though dramatic, felt a bit bleak and empty after the Dalmatian Coast. How much of that can be attributed to the lack of sparkling blue Adriatic water and how much to the bullet holes that peppered local buildings can be debated. <br />
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In any event, the rest of the journey passed uneventfully, at least if you disregard the potentially lethal use of the passing lane by local drivers. Still, it with some relief that we crossed over into Bosniak-Croat territory and approached Mostar. <br />
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Not that it was all peaches and cream there, either.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-58219825873063704352013-07-19T05:49:00.000+02:002013-07-26T17:50:30.535+02:00Rendezvous in Dubrovnik<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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One of the bravest (or most foolhardy) things we attempted was to walk the city walls of Dubrovnik without feeding the kids breakfast.<br />
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There was a certain twisted logic to it: it was our last full day in Dubrovnik, and we figured that if we waited until breakfast was accomplished, we would all wilt in the heat of the day. If we waiting until the cooler evening, someone was certain to dissolve with fatigue or hunger. <br />
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That left one option: get up early and do it in the morning! Except if you don't get up early, that means getting up late and going without breakfast.<br />
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We prayed that it would work out.<br />
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As a precaution (if you could call it that), we did bring a bag of cookies, which we rationed out carefully and strictly, one cookie per turret completed.<br />
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Those who dared to undertake this dangerous mission were treated to some unforgettable views.<br />
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To top it all off, whom did we happen to run into but my old (but very well-preserved) college roommate, John Mark Rogers? OK, it wasn't completely random, but through the modern miracle of social media, John noticed from our previous evening's anniversary post that we were in Dubrovnik, where he just so happened to have arrived that afternoon, with his lovely friend Christine.<br />
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There was nothing like catching up over some war atrocity photographs and reminiscing about the '90s civil war in Yugoslavia.<br />
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Of course, as old Dubrovnik hands by now, we had to show off some of our favorite local haunts.<br />
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In another age, John and I would have discovered five years from now that we were in Dubrovnik at the same time back in 2013, if only we had known, etc. This time, thanks to the magic of Facebook, we did!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-40265425146857297582013-07-17T23:59:00.000+02:002013-07-26T08:39:37.050+02:009th<div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It had been 2+ weeks since our Xannie Nanny split in Split (we simply do not tire of jokes on that theme, in case you're wondering). Yet somehow the resourceful Mrs. F. managed to build a sufficient network of contacts in Dubrovnik to yield a competent babysitter in time to celebrate our 9th wedding anniversary. </div>
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So we ended up enjoying not one, but two, evenings out on the town, reflecting on our two wonderful children (without being distracted by our actual children).<br />
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There were ample reminders of what a good idea it was to take the plunge nine years ago.<br />
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Here's looking at you, kid.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-9180902906157003732013-07-17T23:34:00.000+02:002013-07-25T23:48:04.346+02:00Defenders of Dubrovnik<br />
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To get a better sense of what the 1992-95 Siege of Dubrovnik must have been like (and, frankly, just to snag some views), we took the cable car to the fort high above the city on Mt. Srd. Built by Napoleon during his brief rule over Dalmatian Coast, the fort never saw action until the Yugoslav Army began bombarding the Old Town of Dubrovnik when Croatia attempted to secede from Yugoslavia in 1992.<br />
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The Fort Imperial held out for the length of the siege (by all accounts heroically), but Dubrovnik was badly damaged by Yugoslav artillery firing indiscriminately from surrounding mountains. What were they trying to accomplish by shelling UNESCO World Heritage Site? It was hard to tell from the highly propagandistic accounts in the Fort's museum and many other war-related sites in the City, which uniformly referred to "Serb and Montenegrin aggression" as the sole cause of the conflict. There was plenty of that, to be sure, but as we were to learn in coming days, it wasn't the whole story.<br />
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What is certain is that by shelling Dubrovnik in the early days of the Yugoslav civil war (or as the Croatians call it, the "Homeland War", the Serbs and the other remaining loyalists to the Yugoslav state took on the role of villains, which they would never shed and would do much more to earn. But once that simple narrative took hold in the international media, many of the complexities of the conflict would be lost. In fact, the "good guys" in one town or village could be the bad guys a few kilometers away, as we would see in Mostar and many other places. In that sense, the Siege of Dubrovnik was the worst blunder that the pro-Yugoslav forces could have committed, one that fatally injured their cause, though it would take almost another decade to assess the damage. Remember that, folks, if you find yourselves tempted at some point to commit a war crime. It won't help.</div>
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Fortunately, though, Dubrovnik is far from a downer.<br />
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Aided by the EU and other international donors, the Old City has been repaired and there are few obvious physical reminders of the war there (aside from those the Croats have intentionally left in place).<br />
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Though you would never guess that these people had roofs over their heads given their predilection to dining al fresco.<br />
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Today, happily, the city walls are once again used to attract, rather than repel, foreign invaders.<br />
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So, <em>Živjeli</em>! (Let's drink to that!)<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-76743333251289159622013-07-16T12:21:00.000+02:002013-07-25T03:20:38.185+02:00Three-Card Montenegro<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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A couple of days into our stay in Dubrovnik, the boys and I decided to bust a move and make a border run for Montenegro. Lisa gave us an indulgent look, but indicated that she was quite content to enjoy Dubrovnik for a day without anyone asking to use her iPhone.<br>
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The excursion began on an off note when we noticed that someone had given Fritz's bumper a good scrape overnight in the parking lot. Oh well, we knew Fritz wouldn't be a new car forever. <br>
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And, to look on the bright side, perhaps he would be less likely to be stolen in Montenegro. The Croatian border guards seemed most attentive to the flow of automobiles into their former fellow Yugoslav neighbor. Certainly Fritz's paperwork was checked more carefully than that of either of the two kids I had stashed in the back seat.<br>
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One got a sense of some frostiness between the two countries. Or maybe the Croatians just forgot to put any mention of Montenegro on their road signs, even if the country was only a few kilometers away. <br>
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In any event, Montenegro felt different. The scenery was a now familiar mix of dramatic mountains, cliffs, water and sun. But things were a little rougher around the edges, the Yugoslav era being a more recent memory (Montenegro only formalized its divorce from Serbia a few years ago, after a decade or so of legal separation.)<br>
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A half hour or so from the border, the Adriatic coastline gave way to the remarkable Bay of Kotor, a sort of subtropical fjord. <br>
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Even by the region's high standards, the scenery was remarkable, with towering mountains circling each of a series of large interconnected bays, each lined with venerable towns and fortresses dating from the typical Adriatic laundry list of empires and occupiers (Rome, Venice, Austria, the Ottomans, etc.)<br>
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The current invasion, however, is clearly Russian, if the real estate signs are any indication.<br>
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Curiously, we traveled from an EU country (Croatia) which does not use the euro, to a non-EU country that does -- as its only currency. Apparently, Montenegro got fed up with Yugoslavia's hyperinflation in the 1990s. Unlike their fellow republics, they did not quit the federation -- but they stopped using its money. Instead, they decided to use the Deutschmark exclusively. When Germany adopted the euro, Montenegro came along for the ride. The good news was that I still had enough euros left over from Italy to pay for lunch.<br>
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We spent the rest of the day hopping around the Bay of Kotor and its many fine sights, before taking a shortcut back via ferry. We made it back to Dubrovnik alive and well and quite proud of ourselves for having bagged another country.<br>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-1549845565030317402013-07-14T17:57:00.000+02:002013-07-24T18:40:31.202+02:00The Road to Dubrovnik<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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We managed to pry ourselves away from our little beach on Korčula, but it wasn't easy. A brief bit of cloudy weather helped ease the pain.
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With Korčula's old town in our rear view mirror, our day would take us down the <span dir="auto">Pelješac Peninsula.</span><br />
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This highly diverse and somewhat unheralded bit of Croatia might be more famous if it were an island, something that might easily be accomplished with a backhoe, some shovels and a bit of determination.<br />
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The daunting topography is laced with challenges of all kinds.<br />
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We found ourselves in another tiny tunnel that disgorged us high above the Adriatic. <br />
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At the narrowest point of the peninsula, the ancient fortress of Ston offered one of the more curious wall designs you'll see, but presumably it was effective.<br />
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Ston also happened to be Croatia's seafood capital.<br />
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Too bad we don't care much for seafood.<br />
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Finally, we approach the gates of our destination... would the reality live up to the legend?<br />
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Finding a parking spot in the lots outside of Dubrovnik's city walls was an epic task, and the fees were the stuff upon which legends are built.<br />
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We were also met with a stark -- and prominently posted -- reminder of how badly mauled Dubrovnik was by Yugoslav army shelling in Croatia's 1992-95 war of independence.<br />
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But it was only when we stepped inside the gates in the heat of the afternoon, blithely schlepping all of our luggage and managing two tired kiddos, that we discovered the travails Dubrovnik had in store for us. We had, for some reason, assumed that the old city was basically flat. It is, in fact, shaped like a giant football stadium, and our seats were on the opposite side. There was nothing to do but haul everything down hundreds of stairs to the flat area in the middle and then back up the other side to our apartment. <br />
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We must have been a pitiable sight to the throngs of tourists who were equally hot but not nearly so encumbered. <br />
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Soon we were setting out to explore the city and soak up its many centuries of hard-earned ambiance.<br />
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While we spent most of our <span dir="auto">Korčula time in or on the water, we did find time to make a few visits to its eponymous Old Town.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDdMIZNsGTbfEet8LndeuqIZhYOFBMEDhMY0fuvwLvx3HRQqFS6jmNi6SmZ_rn8oOz71iSBv-MY-t3Z8uWO24KJqXOWWGyinDse2AuYgb5UqCQZfrVPWarHtDHg0xzefCkSEtoZJaSsms/s1600/DSC_0688.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>Even by Croatian standards, the views were sublime. </div>
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These people know how to make an entrance.<br />
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This particular walled town had barbarians at the gate -- notice the turret facing the bay.<br />
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No longer vital for defense, apparently, it had been converted into a bar... one where the drinks were raised up by ropes from dungeon-dwelling mixologists.<br />
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We were happy to raise the average age of the clientele just by showing up.<br />
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You couldn't ask for a better place to kick back and enjoy a drink.<br />
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Except you probably didn't want to kick back too far, or you'd find yourself in the Adriatic.<br />
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On a later visit, the boys put their own mark on the city.<br />
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They were spellbound by the traditional <span dir="auto">Korčullan Sword Dance, complete with red and black armies and a damsel in considerable distress.</span><br />
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The swordplay, though highly choreographed, was nevertheless suitably violent for their tastes.<br />
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And they were both pleased when the entire black army was slain.<br />
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After overcoming some initial jitters about language barriers, Miles and Leo also became regulars at the evening kids' beach soccer game in Lumbarda.
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"Gooooooooooooooaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaal!" turns out to be the same in every language.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-21474302496649058942013-07-10T17:25:00.000+02:002013-07-17T00:05:19.484+02:00Korčulaxin'<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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We've been having good luck with our accomodations on this trip (thanks, Mrs. Falvy!), but on Korčula we really scored. <br />
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Our apartment in laid-back Lumbarda, a few clicks down the road from Korčula's Old Town, turned out to be not only on the water, but smack-dab in front of an actual sandy beach.<br />
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We settled in quickly to what proved to be the most relaxed portion of our vacation to date.<br />
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Our only worries were rolling out of bed in the morning and making sure we applied sunscreen.<br />
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Of course, there were occasional battles over who got prime position on the air mattress.<br />
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But otherwise, things couldn't have been mellower.<br />
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Miles worked on his card games.<br />
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While Leo framed his own agenda.</div>
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After a few days of lolling around on the beach, we decided to venture further afield. We rented this sturdy galleon and decided to try our luck freebooting in the Lumbarda Archipelago.<br />
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On a remote rock outcropping, we stumbled upon a terrific lunch spot.<br />
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And sampled every shade of blue and green the Adriatic could offer.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-11209478788968110512013-07-09T15:46:00.000+02:002013-07-15T17:12:18.221+02:00Going CoastalGetting from Hvar to Kor<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">č</span>ula proved to be our most difficult logistical task of the trip so far; it was also, fortunately, where we benefitted from our best luck. Although both islands have direct car ferry connections to Split, it turned out that the regular boat between them was a passenger-only catamaran -- a distinction that neither our guidebooks nor the official Jadrolinija schedule was particularly clear about. We were faced the possibility of a backtrack to Split, or an equally convoluted detour to the mainland east of Hvar.<br />
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Then, to the rescue sailed Jadrolinja's biweekly coastal ferry, which just happened to be making stops on both Hvar and Kor<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">č</span>ula -- during daylight hours, no less -- on precisely the day when we had to make the transfer. <br />
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So we fed Fritz to the maw of the ferry, and in the hold the workers organized cars headed to a half-dozen destinations according to a system scrutable only to themselves.<br />
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Nevertheless, we were reassured to be appropriately labeled. <br />
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Many of the travelers on the coastal route had apparently been settled into their spots for days.<br />
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One intruded upon their territory at one's own risk.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwanNMWNWUuRGVrHRRi9vkBqadLqPaWrhPyVdo4QDGw8uNjImMKwMKs_nC9CoIH8v-nvGOB9tio5tNJpjedAeYL72cK3Xyly1c-I5L00wmQ685xvTiLoqHdwFUnExClFdIn7rHwjHpxCk/s1600/IMG_4407.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwanNMWNWUuRGVrHRRi9vkBqadLqPaWrhPyVdo4QDGw8uNjImMKwMKs_nC9CoIH8v-nvGOB9tio5tNJpjedAeYL72cK3Xyly1c-I5L00wmQ685xvTiLoqHdwFUnExClFdIn7rHwjHpxCk/s640/IMG_4407.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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Although Hvar and Kor<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">č</span>ula are visible from each other, the trip still managed to take almost four hours, thanks to the leisurely pace of the boat and the complexities of the local waterways.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1FdLj-n1sWGx70fKvNK1-bumkhTSm6CH3VB7b1V04G0u7N5Tj5nteOwYJ851DCB2Z7mMLONrLhMcqSwQgCB46Ug3dLR_u3zguxIWYjs1OohHPJK3khgQ3pHT4Mi2d2ozKXsLdl2IQzzs/s1600/DSC_0597.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1FdLj-n1sWGx70fKvNK1-bumkhTSm6CH3VB7b1V04G0u7N5Tj5nteOwYJ851DCB2Z7mMLONrLhMcqSwQgCB46Ug3dLR_u3zguxIWYjs1OohHPJK3khgQ3pHT4Mi2d2ozKXsLdl2IQzzs/s640/DSC_0597.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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Not that we were complaining, as the trip offered views throughout the archipelago, including Hvar Town...<br />
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... as well as our old digs at Sveta Nikolaj.<br />
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Finally, we pulled into Kor<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">č</span>ula, yet another Adriatic gem.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-37594189029778628922013-07-08T23:14:00.000+02:002013-07-13T23:25:57.535+02:00Bringing in the HvarvestYou would think that an island like Hvar, with its precariously vertical topography, would not have been on the A-List for human settlement before the Age of Tourism, or at least until more accessible pieces of land had been occupied and exhausted.
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But you would be wrong about that. Paleolithic types were already partying hard in Hvar's caves, and the island was settled for agriculture by Greek colonists as far back as the 5th century BC (thanks, no doubt, to the strong drachma).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEAVN7BuGU-V71moSZnIDdEOVgJoW09fycGzxT1_yGc9JJCh04JwVgOuf8RznGJYA620p62SfjsY-LRfZzQRhgVN1J3dSsouBiL0Wa4E6s3xFZmPYZ7wsUfhZTKdo0CKi4r7muVBUT_-o/s1600/DSC_0410.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEAVN7BuGU-V71moSZnIDdEOVgJoW09fycGzxT1_yGc9JJCh04JwVgOuf8RznGJYA620p62SfjsY-LRfZzQRhgVN1J3dSsouBiL0Wa4E6s3xFZmPYZ7wsUfhZTKdo0CKi4r7muVBUT_-o/s640/DSC_0410.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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The port of Stari Grad is one of the oldest in the world -- and they have the ferry schedules to prove it.<br />
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Why? Well, it's all about Big Oil.<br />
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In this case, Big Olive Oil. <br />
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For centuries, the olive and the vine kept the wheels turning in Hvar.<br />
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Today, the warm weather attracts a different crowd. As in much of Croatia, however, you have to be flexible about your beaches, as many of the best ones require a hike, and you're always well-advised to bring your surf shoes.<br />
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But the rewards are obvious.<br />
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Like much of the Adriatic, Hvar did some serious time under Venetian rule -- and the Lion left its St. Mark in places like Vrboska.<br />
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Now, there ought to be a rule that you can't call yourself the "Little Venice" unless you actually have more than one canal.<br />
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Still, it was a charming place to spend an evening, our last on Hvar.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-65935485754911272102013-07-07T14:38:00.000+02:002013-07-13T14:49:34.746+02:00Hvar's My Driving?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Have we mentioned the roads on Hvar? They are generally no wider than necessary for two donkeys to pass, and donkeys on Hvar have traditionally been rather skinny. But the road from our base in Sveta Nedilja to Hvar town is notable not only for being narrow, treacherous, and precariously carved into a cliffside, but for being brand new. Rumor had it that the dirt road was hastily sketched through the landscape before Croatia's EU accession this year brought along more stringent environmental regulations. </div>
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When we asked the owner of our apartment whether she thought the road was safe to drive, she answered ambiguously. We tried again: "Would you drive that way to Hvar?" She replied that she would take it, when she would be driving on the inside of the road, but would not take it on the return trip, choosing an hour-long detour through Stari Grad and the Pitve tunnel over the possibility of passing an opposing car on the outside. </div>
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We took her advice -- and were treated to some wonderful white-knuckle views along the way.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-17140923296518164832013-07-07T12:47:00.000+02:002013-07-12T00:47:57.993+02:00A Bridge To Hvar<br />
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We split the scene in Split and set off for our first Dalmatian island, Hvar, via cvar ferry.<br />
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This was not a quick 20-minute crossing like the one to Rab, but a two-hour Adriatic cruise in its own right.<br />
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The deck of an Adriatic ferry is not so different from a Washington State ferry, except that people are generally wearing a lot less clothing.<br />
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The busy corridor took us around the island of <span dir="auto">Brač, the largest on the Dalmatian Coast.</span><br />
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We clearly weren't the only ones setting forth on the wine-dark sea.<br />
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Finally, just as the natives were getting restless...<br />
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... we pulled in sight of the port of Stari Grad ("Old Town" according to Lisa, our Croatian language specialist).<br />
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We had already experienced some fairly narrow roads in Croatia, but the island of Hvar was about to redefine the concept for us. Our accommodations were on the south side of the island, accessible (if that is the word) only after a winding drive through the hills led us to the Pitve Tunnel, a 1.4 km, single lane that looked like a mineshaft hacked through the mountain by a band of dwarves. <br />
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The light signal, apparently, is new. Previously, residents used walkie-talkies at either end of the tunnel to establish directional priority -- or else they just played chicken.<br />
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Once on the other side, we found a string of charming villages and vineyards clinging precariously to the mountainside that formed the spine of the island.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqlls2s5FKp6ATTY0DDbyFv8iiq4AAGel1nu5ybfaylmY_M7z0xB5CahyKuU-3sWkFoyXzFmL7FPRl_1oxDY-5GljWCGGmC_rL-Jz0N1Iygtiq61_rV3OwWlOQTw65iaR88ubje2Gpo9k/s1600/DSC_0500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqlls2s5FKp6ATTY0DDbyFv8iiq4AAGel1nu5ybfaylmY_M7z0xB5CahyKuU-3sWkFoyXzFmL7FPRl_1oxDY-5GljWCGGmC_rL-Jz0N1Iygtiq61_rV3OwWlOQTw65iaR88ubje2Gpo9k/s640/DSC_0500.JPG" width="640" /></a> The view of the Adriatic from our apartment could hardly be improved on.<br />
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Our local marina doubled as a winery...<br />
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... with a subaquatic cellar full of Croatia's first <em>grand cru</em>.<br />
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It began to look like we could get used to this place.<br />
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-68975440591490233632013-07-04T12:11:00.000+02:002013-07-11T11:09:52.434+02:00Split the Difference<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFv8ondDKxcLOljoZ_KJJWqmncPzcgYsG_EgE-vORcJTc387UhJPxPHx2iOtJKbw6FVSKKBWX0zbJ-VejOnpDW6zq2TiI_UyaP3Q5ONeXY6wm3LAqJP3NqNNc9dYwMS7UgMdXNTk19ex4/s1600/DSC_0171.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFv8ondDKxcLOljoZ_KJJWqmncPzcgYsG_EgE-vORcJTc387UhJPxPHx2iOtJKbw6FVSKKBWX0zbJ-VejOnpDW6zq2TiI_UyaP3Q5ONeXY6wm3LAqJP3NqNNc9dYwMS7UgMdXNTk19ex4/s640/DSC_0171.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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After a string of picture-perfect small towns, Split provided a welcome injection of urban grit and style along with its own impressive monuments. <br />
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Although it draws plenty of tourists as the hub of the Dalmatian coast, Split is an industrial and administrative center in its own right. The local population is sufficient to outnumber tourists, which hasn't been the case for much of our journey so far.<br />
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It was the first city we've visited on the trip that was big enough to have a major soccer club (in this case, Hajduk Split) and semi-lethal rivalries with towns like Zagreb and Belgrade. <br />
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The Hajduks were a band of patriots, or pirates, depending on your point of view, that arose against the Ottoman Turks in the 17th century, but today they are the embodiment of civic virtue in Split, and their name is invoked to sell everything from beer to ice cream.<br />
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The city's lively port is full of ferries serving various Dalmatian islands and cruise ships disgorging tourists onto the broad Riva.</div>
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We made a pilgrimage to the museum housing the works of <span dir="auto">Ivan Meštrović, Croatia's prolific 20th-century sculptor and national icon. </span><br />
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Meštrović's figures from Croatian history were necessarily somewhat lost on us, but the Biblical material rang true -- everyone could relate to the kind of day Job was having.
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The campanile in the center of town offered an enviable view of the sea, mountains and the ancient city nested within the modern one.<br />
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We weren't the only ones enjoying the sights.<br />
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Split's undisputed highlight, however, is Diocletian's Palace, a unique Roman ruin that forms the core of the old city.<br />
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Diocletian built the complex early in the 4th century, probably to get away from the Roman commute.<br />
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Though he was one of the more innovative emperors, Diocletian is best known today for his rigorous persecution of Christians. <br />
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Though his martyr count was impressive, the joke was ultimately on him -- Diocletian's mausoleum was converted into a church after his successors adopted Christianity as Rome's state religion.<br />
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The palace subsequently fell into ruins and was abandoned. But not for long. New residents re-colonized it and a new town grew up within the palace walls. Or, to put it in terms we Pacific Northwesterners would understand, the Roman ruin served as a nurse log for successive medieval, Renaissance and modern saplings that grew up in and around it.<br />
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The result is a uniquely organic fusion of periods and styles, an archeologist's field day.<br />
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Meanwhile, beneath the city, the vast cellars and dungeons of the palace were buried for centuries, only to be excavated by our intrepid team of travelers.<br />
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Our last night in in town was bittersweet as we knew our Xannie Nanny would split in Split the next day. She was great company, and a huge help for the two weeks she spent with us. Next time we'll be sure to book her for the whole trip!<br />
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But we took advantage of one last nanny-night to enjoy some great music (and even a little dancing, truth be told) among the ruins.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-92035609342455479412013-07-02T23:43:00.000+02:002013-07-07T23:48:58.906+02:00Raised on Rabbery<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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We wound up our stay in Rab with a leisurely evening in the Old Town.<br />
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The town bore many emblems of a proud past, when its fearsome two-headed birds terrorized the Adriatic.<br />
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The shopping in modern Rab was not terribly exciting -- for some reason, the local shops were heavily stocked with quasi-obscene, fully obnoxious English-language T-shirts that were hopefully only vaguely understood by their purchasers.<br />
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However, Miles scored a find with his first-ever belt, which he proudly displayed whenever possible. The store had nothing in Miles' size, of course -- it was not even clear if his size exists. So the shop owner custom-built him one -- and probably had enough belt left over to sell another belt.<br />
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We enjoyed a last sunset from St. Mary's Tower, the tallest of the four that form Rab's medieval skyline.<br />
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Meanwhile, down below, Xannie kept the peace at dinner while we enjoyed the view.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2072618941835847845.post-9438906464981333642013-07-01T20:37:00.000+02:002013-07-07T00:39:41.568+02:00Bathing Suits Us<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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We have mentioned how much coastline has ended up in Croatia's possession. Relatively little of it, however, consists of sand. The typical Croatian beach is either an assembly of fairly sizeable pebbles, or simply a large rock. </div>
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Rab had some happy exceptions, notably San Marino Beach at the north end of the island.<br />
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Here, the sand stretched for a kilometer or two along the beach, and was wadeable for several hundred meters out to sea.<br />
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Needless to say, the scene was a hit with the kids.<br />
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... and the grown ups as well.<br />
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Other beaches were a bit more challenging to get to, requiring a boat trip and an epic portage to discover.<br />
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But the journey was well worth it.<br />
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The seemingly remove location brought us into close (well, not that close) contact with a flotilla of mostly Teutonic FKKers. As mentioned previously, Rab is a hotbed of naturism, dating back to a visit from the soon-to-be ex-King Edward VII of Britain in 1936, who was apparently working on a major tan. From our crowd, only Leo was sufficiently inspired by the King's example to go full FKK.<br />
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The rest of us were content to try our first Rapska torte and return in style to a resplendent Rab town.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0