Saturday took us over the Brenner Pass and into the Sudtirol (if you ask the Austrians) and the Alto Adige (according to the Italians). The international border backs up the Italian claim, but bilingual signs and the cemeteries adjacent to World War I battlefields provide ample reminders today that this was long contested ground. It was hard to believe that massive modern armies once tried to wage war among these awe-inspiring peaks.
The boys' own great-grandfather was severely wounded on the Italian front in WWI. Though he survived, it was poignant to see many other Hungarians among the thousands of soldiers of many nationalities buried in the shadow of these mountains.