Have we mentioned the roads on Hvar? They are generally no wider than necessary for two donkeys to pass, and donkeys on Hvar have traditionally been rather skinny. But the road from our base in Sveta Nedilja to Hvar town is notable not only for being narrow, treacherous, and precariously carved into a cliffside, but for being brand new. Rumor had it that the dirt road was hastily sketched through the landscape before Croatia's EU accession this year brought along more stringent environmental regulations.
When we asked the owner of our apartment whether she thought the road was safe to drive, she answered ambiguously. We tried again: "Would you drive that way to Hvar?" She replied that she would take it, when she would be driving on the inside of the road, but would not take it on the return trip, choosing an hour-long detour through Stari Grad and the Pitve tunnel over the possibility of passing an opposing car on the outside.
We took her advice -- and were treated to some wonderful white-knuckle views along the way.